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rino
New User
| Posts: 4
| Joined: 01/07
Posted: 01/22/07 08:25 PM
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well Im verry new to mini trucks and was wondering whare you would buy the Ball joints helm joints and urethane bushings used the the dragged dailey front end
any help would be great as the only minitruck guys in my area build un safe deathe traps and I dont trust them for advice
Ryan
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66 Sub
User
| Posts: 66
| Joined: 12/06
Posted: 01/31/07 09:08 AM
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Check off road or race shops. They have plenty of eurathane bushings and heims in various sizes, and the bungs to weld into tubing. They also have plenty of pre-made tabs to help ease your install.
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rino
New User
| Posts: 4
| Joined: 01/07
Posted: 02/02/07 03:16 PM
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race shops wow I should have had my head examined. Now I found the eurathane bushings and the bungs at a auto parts store. A farm suply center has all the rod ends now I was wondering what the Ball joint is supost to be used for that is uesd in the pic its at the end of control arms.
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66 Sub
User
| Posts: 66
| Joined: 12/06
Posted: 02/02/07 03:23 PM
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The only one I'm seeing is a partial view in the upper left corner. That one attatches to the top of the spindle. Make sure you buy ones that are specific to your application (pulling vs. pushing) Yes, they are designed different. May look similar on the outside but are different internaly. You should look at off road shops catering to off road racing or rock crawling. They have ball joints that have really long throws and can take more punishment. A little more costly but can gain you a little more articulation and safety.
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rino
New User
| Posts: 4
| Joined: 01/07
Posted: 02/03/07 06:17 AM
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sory about the bad pic I found the one I should have posted first. The thing I like about the ball joint in the pic is they are weld on.
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66 Sub
User
| Posts: 66
| Joined: 12/06
Posted: 02/04/07 03:40 PM
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I believe those are called uniballs. From what I can see, the downside to the weld in, is in the case of failure or wear, you have cutting and welding to do.
I would consider making the arm shorter, welding in a threaded bung, going out towards the wheel, and utilizing a LARGE heim and lock nut, in place of this uniball. By doing this, you get replacable pieces and another point of adjustability in the form of caster/camber. Good Luck!
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rino
New User
| Posts: 4
| Joined: 01/07
Posted: 02/07/07 11:07 AM
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wow uniballs are sweet I did some looking an the net and found most of them fit in side of a sleve and are held in with a c clip I found a good picthe help explain
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it still doesent help with caster camber tho but wont the rod ends on the inside of the control arms have adjustment?
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66 Sub
User
| Posts: 66
| Joined: 12/06
Posted: 02/09/07 08:41 AM
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Yes, good point. I was against the uniballs until you posted the pic and them obviously being rebuildable. That was why I'd advised the other method.
Build away my brotha, build away............
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STMIKE
Moderator
| Posts: 364
| Joined: 11/06
Posted: 07/18/07 08:29 PM
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sperical bearings, commonly called uniballs, dont wear out like urethane bushings do. Get te teflon coated ones that self-clean themselves as they articulate and you'll have a nearly indestructable pivot point.
the sleeve welds into the control arm or link bar and then the uniball is pressed into the sleeve and retained with a c-clip. A high misalignment spacer can also be employed to allow the ball to pivot even further with a smaller diameter bolt installed.
tip: dont weld the sleeve into the part with the uniball installed. the weld will bbq the uniball and teflon and then the ball won't pivot afterward. use a brass insert to hold the sleeve in place when welding it to the part. after you're done welding you can paint or powdercoat the part and then press the uniball into place again.
kartek offroad in Riverside and McKenzies Off Road in Placentia both sell uniballs, heim joints, rod ends and the sleeves and bolts to go along with them.
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